1901 W. Pioneer Parkway Arlington, TX 76013   Phone:   817-275-5530

Restaurant Review

By MIKE PETERS / The Dallas Morning News

You might come to Taste of Europe for the hearty Central European fare, but it's easy to get distracted – until the delicate smells of garlic and pilaf draw you back to order dinner.

That's because the cafe is tucked into a gift shop with a heavy Russian accent, featuring goodies from apolitical folk art to military hats straight out of a May Day parade (or a Saturday Night Live sketch). Few patrons can resist trying them on, before or after browsing the CDs, playing cards, fine amber jewelry, commemorative pocket watches, herbal teas and chocolates from Mother Russia.

The shop is a satellite of Russian Island in the Dallas Galleria. Both operations offer gifts, packaged foods and a deli-cafe.

If you order food first and then wander around, be sure you're back at the table when your order arrives. The cafe started as a deli counter and grew into a sit-down dining area; food arrives at the table almost picnic style on pressed-foam plates. The specials are rich renditions from simple ingredients, but they cool fast served this way.

Pelmeni, the chewy meat-filled dumplings traditionally served with sour cream and fresh dill, are fine for starters. But this plate of 12 morsels ($6.95) is really meant as an entree, so bring friends if you want more food after. An interesting variation, Georgian hinkali, is a steamed version with more savory spices.

Pilafs ($8.95) on the menu offer a culinary lesson. Uzbek-style pilaf may be most familiar to Americans who learned the word from a box of Rice-A-Roni or a similar product. The starch is studded with bits of carrot and other veggies. The Armenian version, on the other hand, is redolent with fruits, including plums and raisins. Chunks of juicy lamb pull together the flavors of both pilafs.

Our favorite use of lamb was called shashlique ($12.95), a plate of tender chops made savory with a sage-laced marinade. And the restaurant features tastes of Europe beyond the central heartland: There's a strong Mediterranean element represented in Greek dolmas (rice-stuffed grape leaves brushed with lemon and olive oil) and beautifully grilled kebabs (more lamb, as well as chicken and pork). Kebab plates ($7.95 to $9.95) include a charbroiled tomato, rice and dark bread.

Borscht is made with cabbage, not beets; a bowl is $2.45, and it's a fine way to start the transition from the cold evening outside to the diner's cozy confines.

The deli counter shines at breakfast and lunch, serving up delicious Nova Benedict ($5.45; poached eggs and smoked salmon over a bagel and topped with hollandaise) and house-made corned-beef hash (also $5.45) with poached eggs and sliced tomatoes. Grits are cooked with milk and arrive at the table creamy and slightly sweeter than the more utilitarian version we expect in a Southern-style breakfast.

Takeout customers can load up on soft Russian cottage-style cheese, dried fish, salamis and other traditional cold cuts. Fresh-made mayo-based salads include potato, chicken and a delicious mushroom concoction.

The breakfast menu aims to please all comers, with American renditions of omelets, pancakes and bacon and eggs. But even if you don't go Euro when you order a meal, do check out the wonderful case of Russian nesting dolls, including a glorious set of 26 hand-painted beauties, each skirted with a fairy-tale scene. And if it's really cold outside, try on one of those oh-so-Russian black fur hats.

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